The short answer is, “no.”

The long answer is a little more interesting, and has a surprise in it. First, let’s look at what happens when you try to checkmate a lone King with a King and Knight.

King and Knight can’t checkmate a lone King.

In order to checkmate the enemy King, you must, at a bare minimum, be able to check the enemy King when he is in the corner of the board and cover the three possible escape squares. So let’s say that the Black King is sitting on h1. Since the King can’t check the enemy King (the King giving check would also be in check himself), the check must be delivered by the Knight. That means that the Knight would have to check the King at h1. So the Knight would have to sit on f2 or g3. Let’s imagine that the Knight is on f2 and delivering check to the enemy King at h1. Like so:

Now we just have to add the White King to cover the possible escape squares. If we put White’s King on h3 or g3, it covers two escape squares (h2 and g2), but it leaves g1 open.

And if we put the White King on f1 or f2 to cover the g1 square, that leaves h2 open as an escape hatch. As it turns out, there is no way to cover the four squares needed to construct the checkmating position. There is just no way to make a position where the King and Knight can checkmate the lone enemy King.

If you doubt me on this, I encourage you to get out a chess board and try to set up a checkmate position. It can’t be done.

But the King and Knight can sometimes mate the enemy King.

Here’s the surprising part: the King and Knight can checkmate the enemy King in certain positions if we give Black a little more material — i.e., where Black has a Rook-pawn.

First, you should know that this is merely theoretical; it will almost never come up in a real game. (Reuben Fine called this a “problem position.”) But it is helpful to know the idea, if only to know how the pieces react with one another. So here’s the idea.

In this position, White can checkmate the enemy King with two beautiful moves:

• 1.Nf1 (stalemating the Black King, and so forcing his next move)
• 1…h2
• 2.Ng3 mate

Beautiful, isn’t it? But let’s make the position a little tougher. Let’s change the starting position of the pieces so that the White Knight starts at f4, like this…

… we actually have a mate in 6. Check this out!

• 1.Ne2! Kh2 (otherwise White will play 2.Ng3 mate)
• 2.Nc3 (White could also play 2.Nd4 and then 3.Nf5 here) Kh1
• 3.Ne4 Kh2 (Again forced, else White mates immediately)
• 4.Nd2 Kh1
• 5.Nf1 h2
• 6.Ng3 mate

Speaking of Stalemate

It is possible to stalemate Black with a King and Knight. In this position, for example:

White is two moves from checkmate, and wins with either 1.a8(Q) or 1.a8(R) or any other move (though other moves would take a little longer) except for one: 1.Nf3?? stalemate.

It would be better in this type of position to get the Knight out of the way, forget about it, and just win with the Queen and King against King. If you need to review the procedure for checkmating with a King and Queen against King, just click the preceding link.

So there you have it, Phil — you can’t win with a King and Knight against a King. But I hope it turned out to be a little more interesting than you thought at first!

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The dictionary defines “desperado” as “a bold or violent criminal.” Whether the “desperado” Rook be a criminal or a hero depends on whether it’s your Rook or your opponent’s. Regardless, we will see him acting bold and violent in today’s lesson.

A “desperado Rook” is a Rook that offers to sacrifice itself over and over again, in the hopes that the enemy King will capture the Rook. If the King ever does capture the Rook, the game will end in a draw by stalemate.

Examples of the “Desperado Rook”

Take this position for example (moves in bold font indicate the main line):

White to move and draw

Black is threatening 1…Qxa4, when White has only one legal reply: 2.Kb1, and is checkmated immediately by 2…Qd1 checkmate.

But it’s White’s move, and he has a drawing resource. He can play 1.Rd4+!

(This is the only way to avoid losing the game.) Now if Black captures the Rook — 1…Kxd4 — it’s stalemate; the game is a draw. So White has offered the rook as a sacrifice, knowing that if black captures it, the game is a draw.

Tip — How to recognize the desperado Rook draw!

The secret to recognizing this possible tactic is to see that the White King would be in stalemate if it were his move and his Rook were not on the board. In this particular case, White notices the relative positions of the White King in the corner and the Black Queen standing a Knight’s move away.

Any time the lone King is in the corner with the enemy Queen a Knight’s move away, it’s stalemate if it’s the King’s move. (This stalemate can come up a number of different ways, and it’s very important in Q v P endgames where White has a c-pawn or f-pawn on the 7th rank.)

Back to the main line

But to return to our position — instead of capturing the Rook, Black could try to avoid it. So he wisely plays 1…Ke3. In which case, White plays 2.Re4+!!

Again the white rook offers itself up. If either the King or the Queen captures the Rook, White is stalemated and the game is a draw.

2…Kf3. Black still avoids the capture.

3.Rf4+.

And White continues the pursuit. This is why the rook is called a “desperado.” Like before, if Black captures the Rook, the game ends in stalemate.

3…Ke2

Black decides to try something different, hoping to somehow avoid the desperado.

4.Rf2+!

But the Rook will not be denied.

Black has two choices: he can either capture the Rook or move the King to protect the Queen. If he captures the Rook, it’s instant stalemate as in the other instances. But if 4…Kd1 (or …Kd3), 5.Rxc2 Kxc2 stalemate!

In this variation, the rook has shown both his bold and violent nature.The desperado Rook valiantly offered himself as a sacrifice in order to save the White King from certain doom.

Here are two desperado Rook positions from Lev Alburt and Roman Pelts:

(If you’d like that great beginning chess book, check out this link:
Comprehensive Chess Course Volumes I & II (Chess Course Volumes 1 & 2 From beginner to advanced player in 24 lessions 3rd Revised and Enlarged Edition, Volume 1 & 2).)

In both of the following diagrams, White is to move and draw. I’ll have links to the solution for both problems before the end of the week.

White to move and draw

White to move and draw

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Many times, inexperienced players will heedlessly push their passed Pawn, completely oblivious to the opponent’s defensive resources. They may have read Irving Chernev’s classic book for beginning chess players, “Logical Chess: Move by Move.” (It’s the first book I read with any understanding – every move for every game is explained.) He said (several times, if I recall correctly), “passed pawns must be pushed.”

That is true, but not always true, and not true of King and Pawn v. King endings. For these endings, it’s more important to push the King! Max Euwe said this:

As to the passed pawn, textbooks often say that one should advance it as far and fast as one can, but rather we should say: advance the passed pawn only as far as is necessary. In … basic pawn endings … the most important principle is that of getting the king into play, as far forward as possible, and in fact this is nearly always the first thing to be done.” (See A Guide to Chess Endings, p. 41-42.)

So, for example, in the simple King and Pawn endings that have appeared in this blog, the first thing to do … almost always … is: forget the pawn – push the King!!

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If you saw my other article about how to win with a King and Pawn against King, you may remember that the attacker has to get his King in front of his Pawn. Specifically, (for a Pawn that is on its 2nd, 3rd, or 4th rank) the attacker has to get his King to one of the three squares that are two squares in front of the Pawn in order to be sure to force a win.

Critical Squares to Win with King and Pawn against King

To defend against the King and Pawn, White needs to prevent the King from reaching one of the critical squares. And the best way to do that is to get his own King to one of the two squares directly in front of the enemy Pawn.

Stop and Telestop Squares as Defensive Positions

From the following starting position, the defense proceeds as follows:

• 1…Ke8
• 2.Ke5 (moving to the telestop square)

The White King on the telestop square -- second best defensive square

• 2…Kf7
• 3.Kf5 (gaining the “opposition” to prevent Black from getting in front of his Pawn)

The opposition as a defensive resource

• 3…e6+
• 4.Ke5 (this time, moving to the “stop square”)

• 4…Ke7
• 5.Ke4 Kf6
• 6.Kf4 e5+
• 7.Ke4 Ke6
• 8.Ke3 Kd5
• 9.Kd3 e4+
• 10.Ke3 Ke5
• 11.Ke2 Kd4
• 12.Kd2 e3+
• 13.Ke2 Ke4
• 14.Ke1 Kd3
• 15.Kd1 e2+
• 16.Ke1 Ke3 stalemate

Stalemate! It's a draw.

The primary point to keep in mind is preventing Black from getting in front of his Pawn, and keeping your own King on the Stop and Telestop squares whenever possible. When those squares are unavailable, move to oppose the enemy King. That procedure will get you a draw every time. But you must proceed carefully; thoughtless defense can turn a draw into a loss in a single move!

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Even a single Pawn can be the difference between winning and losing. This simple fact is vital for beginning chess players to understand. The material at your disposal is important — and that means every Pawn is important. Just winning a Pawn can be the edge that allows you to win; and losing a Pawn can be the edge that allows your opponent to win.

That little material advantage — a single Pawn — often comes down to the question of winning the King and Pawn vs. King ending.

Of course, knowing how to defend the ending can be the difference between a loss and a draw — but that will be the subject of a future blog post.

Use your King to fight!

The first simple rule to remember in most King and Pawn endings is this: get your King in front of your Pawn. If you do just that, you’ll win a lot more endgames. (And this rule applies to more than just King and Pawn endings.)

So the first rule is to get your King in front of your Pawn. A corollary to that rule is that you should not move your Pawn until your King is in front of your Pawn. Rather than impulsively pushing your Pawn as quickly as possible, you should advance your Pawn only when the way has been prepared by your King, driving the enemy King back to unfavorable positions.

The critical squares

In order to quickly decide whether you can win a King and Pawn ending, you should know that your Pawn has a critical square — in fact, it has three critical squares. The squares are called “critical” because you can win the game if your King can occupy one of those squares, while you will probably draw the game if you can’t. (Your opponent might blunder, of course; but analysis should never proceed on the hope or belief that your opponent will make a mistake.)

Note that these critical squares are only for the King and Pawn v. King endgame. There are different critical squares for different kinds of King and Pawn endgames.

The critical squares for all the Pawns except the Rook-pawns (i.e., Pawns on the b- through g-files) is the square that is two squares in front of the Pawn and the squares immediately adjacent to that square — unless the Pawn stands on the fifth rank, when the critical squares are moved back one row, directly in front of the Pawn. We’ll cover how to promote the Pawns on the c- through f-files in this article. The Knight-pawns (Pawns on the b- or g-files) and Rook-pawns (Pawns on the a- or h-files) have slightly different rules and procedures. We’ll cover those in a future blog post and video.

Here is a diagram showing the critical squares for a White Pawn on e2.

The Critical Squares for the White Pawn at e2

The d4, e4, and f4 squares are called “critical squares” because if White can occupy any one of them, he is guaranteed to win with best play. On the other hand, if Black can prevent White from occupying any of the critical squares, he is guaranteed a draw with best play. (Black need not occupy the critical squares — he need only prevent White from occupying the critical square in order to draw.)

The ending would proceed something like this.

• 1.Kd2 Ke7
• 2.Ke3 Kf7

Black realizes he can’t prevent White from getting his King to one of the critical squares, so he maneuvers to get the opposition.

• 3.Ke4 Ke6

How Does White Make Progress?

Now White has occupied the critical square, but Black has the opposition. How does White make progress?

• 4.e3!

White to Move and Draw - Black to Move and Lose

Now White has the opposition! Black must give way. (We should note that if it were White’s move in this position, Black would be able to draw the game. As it is, he must allow the White King to advance.)

It is also important to note that when the Pawn moved forward, the critical squares also moved forward. White must keep his King in front of the Pawn! His new objective: get the King to one of the new critical squares on d5, e5, or f5. Black moves:

• 4… Kd6
• 5.Kf5! Ke7
• 6.Ke5 Kd7
• 7.Kf6 Kd6
• 8.e4 Kd7
• 9.e5 Ke8

Now White has to “squeeze” Black off of the promotion square. This is a critical moment, and beginners can go wrong here. 10.e6?? would be a big mistake that throws away the win. Black would play 10…Kf8, and now 11.e7+ Ke8 and now White must choose between 12.Ke6 stalemate and moving the King away so that Black can capture the Pawn. Remember the rule: King in front!

• 10.Ke6 Kd8
• 11.Kf7

The White King in Position to Escort the Pawn to the Promotion Square

From this square, the King protects all the squares leading to the promotion square. The Pawn just marches in.

• 11… Kd7
• 12.e6+ Kd8
• 13.e7+ Kd7
• 14.e8(Q)+ …

And White wins.

In the next installment, we’ll see how to defend this position — how to draw with a King against a King and Pawn.

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When the pawn stands on its home square, you must imagine the square of the pawn as if it were standing on its third rank instead of its second. The reason for this is that the Pawn can move two squares for its initial move. That being the case, the square of the pawn must account for the double move.

For example, if White’s a-pawn stands on a4, the square of the Pawn is drawn with the Pawn standing at the lower-left corner of the square, as in the following diagram.

When the Pawn stands on a4

But if the a-pawn stands on a2, the square of the Pawn is drawn as if the Pawn stands on a3.

Square of the Pawn on a2

Knowing the rule for the square of the Pawn is extremely useful in calculating endgames, but you must keep in mind the possibility that a Pawn on its original starting square has the possibility of moving two squares for its first move.

Technorati Tags: chess endgame strategy, chess strategy, square of the pawn

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Most chess books devoted to teaching beginners how to play chess and many basic endgame books (such as Reuben Fine’s Basic Chess Endings or Pandolfini’s Endgame Course) will show how to execute this checkmate. I recommend studying the examples in one of those books, as well as learning the example I give here.

As with most of the simple checkmates, the first important goal is getting your King to the center of the board. The two Bishops can checkmate the opponent only with the help of their own King!

Second, the Bishops should work together.

Notice how, in this diagram, the two Bishops placed next to each other prevent the enemy King from attacking them. The Bishops guard four squares directly in front of them, thus preventing the King from immediately attacking either one of them. In fact, the Bishops have the enemy King completely imprisoned, and the White King can now stroll up to the scene to aid in further confining the opponent.

Third, the Bishops working together can deprive the enemy king of squares, forcing him to the edge of the board and then to the corner, where he can be checkmated. In order to checkmate with two Bishops against a King, the King must be driven into a corner.

From the following position, White can checkmate Black in 16 moves. The first objective is to get the King and both Bishops in the center of the board. This will automatically confine Black to one section of the board, bounded by White’s Bishops.

1.Kc3 Ke5
2.Kc4+ Kf5
3.Kd5 …

King in the center! Notice that the two Bishops, working from a distance and from opposite corners, completely dominate the center squares. (Look at the position after 2.Kc4+ to see the strong work the Bishops can do in kicking the enemy King out of the center.)

3… Kf4
4.Be4 Ke3
5.Be5 …

Step 2 -- Bishops in the Center

Both Bishops in the center! Notice that 5.Bd4 (instead of Be5) would have allowed Black to stay nearer the center of the board with 5…Kf4. Since we’re trying to drive Black away from the center and toward a corner, Be5 would have wasted a move.

5… Kd2
6.Kd4 Ke1
7.Ke3 Kd1

Step 3 - Advance the King

Now the Bishops will cooperate to deprive the enemy King of escape squares along the edge of the board, one square at a time. We’ll use the Bishops to take away squares from the left side, and use our King to guard squares on the right side (the flank nearest the corner of the board). Watch how the Bishops “roll up” the King.

8.Bb2 Ke1
9.Bc2 Kf1
10.Kf3 Ke1
11.Bc3+ Kf1
12.Bd3+ Kg1

Step 4 - King guards right flank, Bishops roll up left flank

Now our King has to cover the escape squares on the right side.

13.Kg3 Kh1
14.Bb2 …

This is just a tempo move. If 14.Bd4 to take away another square from the enemy King, it turns out we’ve taken away too many squares! It’s stalemate; a draw. So waste a move, taking care to make sure Black’s King doesn’t escape the net!

14… Kg1
15.Bd4+ Kh1
16.Be4#

Checkmate!

Checkmate. This mate won’t come up very often, if ever, in your games; but it’s a useful exercise to see how the Bishops can cooperate to hem in enemy pieces.

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(Video below the jump.)

Often a game of chess will end with two Kings and one Pawn: King and Pawn vs. King. And very often in those situations, the question is simply this: can the King catch the Pawn?

The rule is called the “square of the Pawn.”

The way to quickly decide the race of the Pawn vs. the King is to visualize in your mind a square where the Pawn is at one corner, and the diagonally opposite corner is on the Pawn’s 8th rank (the rank where the Pawn would promote to a Queen).

(The square of the Pawn is the blue shaded area in the diagram.) The rule works like this: if the King can move into the square of the Pawn, then the King can catch the Pawn.

So in the diagram, with Black to move, he has only one move that allows him to catch the Pawn: Ke4. (If you don’t understand chess notation, read my article entitled “Chess Notation Part 1” to learn about reading and recording chess moves.)

You can use the square of the Pawn in many situations like this, and it will help you to visualize and evaluate many endgame positions much more easily.

If you want to watch a video with a discussion of the square of the Pawn, check out the video below. Also, see this important caveat about calculating the square of the Pawn when the Pawn stands on its home square!

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This article is about how to finish the mate with King and Rook against King. This mate is slightly more difficult than the one with the Queen, but relatively easy once you see the method and understand the concepts.

I will have three posts about this checkmate: the first shows the checkmate patterns with Rook and King against King, the second has rules and tips for mating with a King and Rook against King, and the third will show a 15-move checkmate from a difficult starting position to the final checkmate.

The checkmate patterns

There are three, and only three, patterns for checkmating with King and Rook v. King. The first pattern is the checkmate on the side of the board. This checkmate can occur on any edge of the board on any square that is not a corner square. The Kings stand opposite each other and the White Rook checks the Black King along the side.

In the diagram above, the Rook gives check along the rank, and could be anywhere on that rank except c8 or e8. (If the Rook were on c8 or e8, the Black King could get out of check by capturing the Rook.)

The second and third patterns occur with the Black King in the corner. In this next one, the Black King is in the corner with the White King a Knight’s-move away and the White Rook checking from the side. Again, the White Rook can be anywhere along the 8th rank, provided he’s not right next to the Black King on b8.

The third pattern is really just a variation of the first and second patterns; the Black King is in the corner and the White King stands directly opposite the Black King.

If you know these patterns, you will have a goal to reach for your King and Rook v. King checkmate. The video has examples of how you might reach these positions, and my next post will give rules for reaching these checkmate positions.

Technorati Tags: how to checkmate, king and rook checkmate

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It is very common for chess games to come down to an endgame, and very often those endgames amount to a single Pawn or a Pawn for each side (plus the Kings, of course). In order to win more chess games, you must know endgame strategy.

Queen v. Pawn strategy

Take a look at the following endgame diagram. Black’s Pawn, sitting on e2, is one step from promoting. If it were Black’s move, he can draw the game by simply moving 1…e1(Q). Draw!

But it’s White’s move. The players each have a simple overall strategy for winning (or drawing) this game. White’s strategy is to capture Black’s pawn. In order to do that, he must do two other things: he must first prevent Black from promoting his Pawn, and he must attack the Pawn with both his King and Queen (the Queen alone can’t safely capture the Pawn as long as Black’s King guards it). In order to do this, White must bring both his King and Queen to bear on the Pawn; both must attack the Pawn at the same time.

Preventing Black from promoting the Pawn can be done by pinning the Pawn and keeping Black busy with checks against his King. Bringing White’s King closer requires that Black have his King in front of his Pawn, physically blocking the Pawn from the promotion square. This will give White a free move (a tempo) to move his King closer to the Pawn. Each time Black’s King sits on the promotion square, White has a free move to bring his own King closer to the action.

Black, on the other hand, wants to promote his Pawn to Queen (which would result in a draw). In order to do that, Black wants to both protect his Pawn from capture while leaving the promotion square open so that if he gets a chance, he can push the pawn to e1.

Black’s strategy is simple; and while White’s strategy is equally simple, executing the strategy requires careful maneuvering.

Here are the moves for finishing this mate. The starting position is in the diagram above. Also listen to the video for my additional comments about the position and White’s techniques for winning the game.

1. Qf6+ Kg1
2. Qe5 Kf1
3. Qf4+ Kg1
4. Qe3 Kf1
5. Qf3+ Ke1

White has driven the Black King in front of the Pawn (which Black has resisted as long as possible), preventing Black from promoting and giving White time to bring up his King. Achieving this position is one of White’s intermediate strategic objectives. Watch how White brings about this position several times in order to give his King opportunities to move closer to the action.

6. Kb7 Kd2
7. Qf2 Kd1
8. Qd4+ Kc1
9. Qe3 Kd1
10. Qd3+ Ke1
11. Kc6 Kf2

Avoiding Kf1, which would be moving into a pin and would give White a “free move” to bring the King closer.

12. Qd2 Kf1
13. Qf4+ Kg1
14. Qe3 Kf1
15. Qf3+ Ke1
16. Kd5 Kd2
17. Qf4+ Kd1
18. Qd4+ Kc1
19. Qe3 Kd1
20. Qd3+ Ke1
21. Ke4 Kf2

Now the White King is close enough to help in both attacking the Black Pawn and delivering checkmate to the Black King. You can’t give checkmate with the Queen alone … the Queen needs some help (from either friendly or enemy pieces) to checkmate the King.

22. Qf3+ Kg1
23. Qe2 Kh1
24. Kf3 Kg1
25. Qg2# …

This ending works every time against a Knight-pawn or center-pawn (the b-pawn, d-pawn, e-pawn, or g-pawn). The Rook-pawns and Bishop-pawns can be more tricky and sometimes impossible to win. That will be the subject of another post soon.

This chess endgame is very important to know, and it is surprising how few average tournament players know this ending. If you play enough chess, this will come up. You should know this well enough to be able to play it without thinking. Well … at least not thinking too much.

You can find this endgame in Reuben Fine’s masterwork, Basic Chess Endings (look at diagram number 544).

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